Initially I looked at the monitor with a flashlight and kept my distance because I didn't know if it was charged or not. I noticed a fuse that was blown but the fuse was soldered in. I decided to discharge the monitor and remove it from the machine.
After discharging the monitor, I physically removed it and inspected it closely. I cleaned the tube, boards and chassis with a toothbrush and paper towels with water. Instead of just replacing the fuse, I decided that I better install a cap kit. If the capacitors were bad then I could end up replacing the fuse again in another week or so.
I ordered the cap kit from Zanen Electronics, Phone 806-793-6337, which arrived quickly and cost $7.50 minus shipping and handling. The kit had very good instructions and took about 45 minutes to install. After installing the kit, I put in a fuse holder and a fuse. The fuse holder should pay off if the fuse ever blows again.
Now that I've installed the cap kit and replaced the fuse, I still need to test the monitor. As of now I still haven't tested it.
Because I want to mount the monitor vertically, I have to figure out how to retrofit the cabinet to accommodate this. In Defender (which the cabinet was built for) the monitor sits horizontally (photo). Getting the monitor to fit vertically (photo) in the same cabinet isn't just a matter of sticking it in there. First of all I had to cut off the corners of the monitor support brackets. I used a hacksaw, some muscle and a lot of patience to cut these off.
Cutting the corner off with a hacksaw.
After cutting off the corners I kept my fingers crossed that the monitor would fit OK on the cabinet. Unfortunately it didn't. The only way to make this work is to move the shelf.
This is a more recent photo of the monitor as it's mounted. The neck and main PCB are missing from the monitor in this photo.
On my initial attempt to get a PC working with my arcade monitor, I ended up breaking a potentiometer. The monitor picture was bright and clear but couldn't hold horizontally. I'm not sure whether I needed to change the sync type (positive or negative) or if I had some bad components on the board. Since I've obtained a troubleshooting flowchart for the monitor, I plan on using it to see if I have a problem with horizontal hold components.
In the meantime I've ordered some replacement potentiometers and removed the monitor boards.
Second Chance Arcade